Top Ten Family Adventures in the San Juan Mountains

Southwest Colorado’s San Juan Mountains include 13 of the state’s famed Fourteeners (mountains exceeding 14,000 feet) and some of the state’s most spectacular scenery. Most of this wilderness is federally protected land, and its peaks, valleys, creeks, canyons, meadows, and more double as an outdoor playground for adventure-seeking visitors of all ages.

A Very Brief but (Hopefully) Useful History

Before I get into the adventures, I think it helps to understand some of the history of the area. These rugged mountains were home to the Ute Indians for centuries. The Utes withstood visits from treasure-seeking Spanish explorers, but they couldn’t hold on to their lands when 19th-century prospectors came for gold and silver. After years of unfair treaties, the tribe was finally forced onto reservations west of the mountains. Mining flourished throughout the mountains before dwindling in the early 20th century. The last large-scale mine finally closed in 1991 (though environmental damage has continued).

Little remains of the Utes’ centuries-long presence, but abandoned mines are still scattered throughout the mountains. Former mining towns like Silverton, Ouray, and Telluride are now popular tourist attractions. Durango, founded in 1880 to support the railroad, is now the area’s biggest city and the southern gateway to mountain exploration.

Where to Stay

Durango offers the most amenities and provides easy access to the mountains. If you’d like to stay in a more remote mountain town, then Silverton, Telluride, and Ouray are all great options. (Expensive Telluride, home to a famous ski resort, is the most isolated option.) My family loves staying at Purgatory Resort, which is just 30 minutes north of Durango.

Top Ten Family Adventures in the San Juan Mountains

 

1. Hiking

There’s no better way to experience the full-sensory beauty of these mountains than by hiking through them. For a list of family-friendly hikes, check out my post: Six Fantastic Family-Friendly Hikes near Durango.

2. Purgatory Resort

Whether you visit in summer or winter, Purgatory Resort is a surefire hit for fun-loving families. Besides skiing (both downhill and cross-country), winter activities include tubing, snowshoeing, sleigh rides, and riding on a mountain coaster.

In the summer, the resort offers a variety of activities, from the mountain coaster and an alpine slide to gold panning, go-karting, and rides on the chairlift. Experienced mountain bike riders can also test their skills on a variety of trails.

3. White Water Rafting

Durango is a whitewater rafting paradise thanks to the rivers of the San Juan Mountains. The main draw, the Animas River, begins in the mountains near Animas Forks and tumbles through a series of canyons and valleys before it reaches Durango, where a stretch of the river known as “Whitewater Park” has been specifically designed for rafting excitement. You can choose from a number of rafting companies, including Mountain Waters Rafting, that welcome kids as young as four years old on a variety of river tours.

Note: Keep in mind that the river runs highest and strongest earlier in the rafting season. By August and September, the water level drops–which will provide a calmer trip for young kids but might also become low enough to limit some of the tours.

4. Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad

Though trains are no longer needed to carry precious minerals out of the mountains, the railroad has transformed into one of the region’s most popular attractions. Historic steam-engine trains carry passengers into the mountains on a breathtaking path along the Animas River that’s completely inaccessible to cars.

In the summer, trains (some open to the elements, others with windows or glass ceilings) travel 3 1/2 hours north to Silverton, where passengers can explore for two hours before heading back to Durango. In winter, trains only run two hours north to Cascade Canyon for a one-hour break along the river before turning around.

For much more information, visit the railroad’s website.

 

5. Animas Forks Ghost Town

High in the mountains above Silverton, the ghost town of Animas Forks offers an atmospheric trip back in time at an elevation of 11,200 feet. First settled in 1873, this mining town bustled for a short time before dwindling profits led to its abandonment in the 1920s.

You can wander through numerous now-stabilized buildings as you appreciate stunning views of the surrounding mountains and imagine what it must have been like to live in such a beautiful but inhospitable setting.

Note: You’ll need a high-clearance vehicle to reach Animas Forks. We made the drive in a Nissan Pathfinder, but it was very rough going. With a high-clearance, four-wheel drive vehicle, you can also continue beyond Animas Forks on the Alpine Loop Trail (see #8).

 

6. Million Dollar Highway

 

The Million Dollar Highway is a 25-mile portion of Highway 550 that stretches from Silverton to Ouray. It may have received its name because locals thought it would take a million dollars to construct a road through such mountainous terrain. However, visitors will leave convinced that the name must refer to the dramatic, “million dollar” views from every car window throughout the drive.

The Million Dollar Highway reaches a summit of 11,018 feet at Red Mountain Pass before winding down through Umcompahgre Gorge to Ouray. Hopefully, your car’s driver doesn’t mind steep drop offs! Also, if you’re traveling with young kids, be sure to keep a barf bag handy (I speak from experience).

The charming town of Ouray is called the “Switzerland of America” due to the steep mountains that nearly encircle the town. Some of the many activities available in Ouray include visiting Box Canyon Waterfall and Lower Cascade Falls as well as hiking the city’s Perimeter Trail (see below, left to right).

7. Mesa Verde National Park

Durango is just 35 miles east of Mesa Verde National Park, where visitors can tour the striking remains of the Ancestral Pueblo people, who built thriving communities atop the area’s mesas and cliffs for over 700 years. The most famous sight is the spectacular Cliff Palace, which is thought to be the largest cliff dwelling in North America.

Though there are a number of scenic hikes and drives within the park, you’ll need to make a reservation to visit most cliff dwellings–including Cliff Palace (available May to October; tickets become available 14 days in advance).

8. Alpine Loop Backcountry Byway

Serious adventurers should consider driving the Alpine Loop Backcountry Byway, a rugged, 65-mile 4×4 road that winds through some of the San Juan Mountains’ most glorious backcountry. You’ll reach elevations as high as 12,800 feet as you drive through mountain passes, encounter ghost towns, and keep a look out for wildflowers and wildlife.

The Alpine Loop also offers access to American Basin, from which hikers can reach 14,048-foot Handies Peak, one of Colorado’s famed Fourteeners. The 5.3 out-and-back hike is considered one of the (relatively) easiest Fourteener hikes in Colorado. For a great guide to hiking Handies Peak, check out this post from Girl on a Hike.

The Alpine Loop can be accessed from the towns of Lake City, Silverton, and Ouray. These towns as well as Durango have a variety of local outfitters offering vehicle rentals and vehicle tours. You will definitely need a high-clearance, four-wheel drive vehicle for this trip!

 

9. Horseback Riding

Horseback riding is not only fun for all ages, but, if you’re like me, it also makes you feel a bit like you’ve traveled back in time to 19th-century Colorado. Exploring these mountains the old-fashioned way also provides you access to trails and mountain scenery not easily accessible to most visitors. Whether you’re up for just an hour ride or you’d like to experience a multi-day pack trip, you’ll find what you’re looking for at one of the area’s many stables.

We had a great time riding horses at Elk Point Lodge on the shore of Vallecito Lake. Other options include Buck’s Livery near Purgatory Resort, Over the Hill Outfitters outside Durango, and Action Adventures Trail Rides near Ouray.

 

10. Old Hundred Gold Mine Tour

Want to know more about the mines scattered through the mountains? In the Old Hundred Gold Mine Tour near Silverton, you can ride a vintage mining train deep inside 13,000-foot Galena Mountain to experience what life was like for miners. After witnessing mining equipment in action and learning from a knowledgeable guide, visitors return above ground and try their luck panning for copper, silver, and gold in the Old Hundred sluice box.